Benchmark Pizzeria has been a keystone of Colusa Circle and it’s where we kicked off our first dine-in experience of 2023. With our initial bite, we instantly remembered the first time we tried their fried sage and brown butter pizza. It’s been on the menu for years and there’s a good reason it’s a mainstay for Benchmark.
Enthusiasts argue over what makes for a great pizza, but for me, it will always be about the dough! Excitedly, Benchmark makes theirs daily, allowing it to rise for 48 hours before topping it and cooking it in their wood-burning oven.
Within what seemed like just minutes after ordering, our server returned with simple perfection - a mouthwatering pizza with just enough char to remind you of the magic that comes from 700°F. Fresh mozzarella highlighted a perfect chewy texture and the brown butter and garlic added body to each delicious bite. The fried sage provided a surprising crunch and elevated the experience without taking away from their light and slightly sour, homemade dough.
Unsurprisingly, key ingredients such as cheese, pasta, and condiments are also all made in-house. Opened in 2012 by restaurant industry veterans Melissa & Peter Swanson, Benchmark is dedicated to local and sustainable produce and meat that is nitrate and hormone-free.
Stanley Tucci’s show “Searching for Italy,” introduced us to strozzapreti, the macabrely- nicknamed “priest strangler” pasta based on a story of gluttonous priests so enthralled by its shape and taste that they ate too quickly and choked themselves. We were excited to find Strozzapreti Bolognese on Benchmark’s menu, which arrived perfectly al dente in a traditional meat sauce. We are happy to report that we ate slowly enough to avoid choking.
Benchmark also features a robust wine selection and fun seasonal cocktails. I was tempted to try the Nitrum Martini made up of Mosswood rum, Nitro coffee, vanilla syrup, and whipped cream, but I did a double-take at the message on the chalkboard above the counter displaying $18 for the house wine. Accustomed to post-pandemic inflation and the need for restaurants to increase prices to protect their margins, surely this was the price for a single glass, or at most a half carafe, right? Nope, $18 got us a full bottle of Montepulciano D'abruzzo, a great Italian table wine perfect for a casual night out of pizza and pasta.
We ended our lovely family dinner with the Benchmark Sundae, a not-so-basic vanilla ice cream sundae with chocolate sauce, sunflower seeds, whipped cream, and a cherry on top. Admittedly, I left curious about the other soft serve options including a Fior di Latte (Buffalo Milk cheese) and a Chocolate Vegan Oat Milk. All came highly recommended, but we ran out of room. Next time!
Just like all restaurants during the pandemic, Benchmark initially struggled to find a way to survive during such a challenging time. One of their solutions involved expanding their space to include a charming, heated outdoor dining area which turns out to be the perfect place to catch a bay area sunset and a slice of pizza or two or three. Another great idea was to open up a retail location just a few doors down that offers Italian groceries and convenient grab-and-go paninis and salads. Benchmark is aptly named because it has indeed found its standard in excellence and is an ideal way to balance the Bay Area’s natural bounty with the inspiration of traditional Italian pizza.
1568 OAK VIEW AVE
KENSINGTON, CA
https://benchmarkpizzeria.com/
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