Is there such a thing as too much cheese? A common debate in our household revolves around this very question, particularly when it comes to the amount of parmesan sprinkled on a plate of pasta. A visit to Italy a few years back truly opened our eyes (and palates) to what a huge difference high-quality cheese could make. Since then, we’ve concluded, in our opinion, that there truly is no such thing as too much cheese—especially when it comes to amazing Parmesan.
Some of the area’s culinary gems are hidden in plain sight. As we settle into fall, we turn our attention once again to the Peppermint Tree Plaza in El Cerrito on San Pablo Avenue. A large sign advertising “Cheese Wheel Pasta” drew us into Dolly’s, an Italian eatery with a unique blend of modern and vintage charm.
Dulanthi “Dolly” Batathota moved to El Cerrito from Sri Lanka in 2009 and, inspired by her Italian aunt, developed a deep connection with Italian flavors and experiences. Before opening her own restaurant, she honed her skills at the renowned Milano’s Restaurant in Tiburon, where she eventually became manager before its closure during the pandemic. Though unfortunate, the closure led Batathota to discover a vacant lot on San Pablo Avenue, which she transformed into the restaurant she had always dreamed of creating.
Dolly’s offers a quintessential Italian menu, emphasizing simplicity and quality ingredients, and to create a unique menu that would stand out and captivate her customers she introduced the legendary cheese wheel pasta! Fresh, al dente pasta is transferred directly from boiling water to the middle of a huge wheel imported from Parma to be tossed where it mixes and melts with the Parmesan.
This spectacle is irresistible to capture for social media which makes the seats at the marble counter the best in the house. Whether served 'plain' or with salmon or prosciutto, watching the final dish being assembled just moments before it’s served to you is a tantalizing test of restraint.
Complementing the pasta is a diverse selection of wines and beers, along with a range of fresh salads—I’m particularly fond of the Beet Salad tossed in their house-made dressing—and sides like their flavorful meatballs, creating the perfect date night meal.
To elevate the experience, Dolly imports desserts from Milan every week. After tasting the tiramisu, we knew it were experiencing something special, leaving us eager to return and try the Mango Panna Cotta or the Coppa Mascarpone.
The cozy and intimate setting makes it easy to chat with Dolly and her husband, Shenal Dias, whose passion and resilience shine through. This month, they’ll be celebrating their hard work and dedication.
Mark your calendars for Dolly’s first-anniversary celebration on Saturday and Sunday, October 26–27 from 12:00-6:00 pm. This FREE event will feature live music, a DJ, Italian food, Emiliano’s Tacos Truck and a cheese cutting competition!
What you’d expect to find in a trendy metro area like London or New York, Dolly has brought to El Cerrito through hard work, resilience, and a commitment to community. Let’s celebrate with her!