Amidst the bustling traffic in El Cerrito, there’s a hidden gem and a recent addition to the area. Blink and you’ll miss it. Even during a brief pause at a stop light when there’s a chance to look around, it’s highly probable that you’ll still miss it.
There’s no signage on the building itself, so look for the wine barrels sitting on the sidewalk as your clue, or perhaps you’ll spot their small sandwich board just outside their front door. Find parking somewhere near 10368 San Pablo Avenue, the address to Banter, a wine bar with a warm atmosphere, welcoming decor, and communal tables.
Offering a curated selection of old and new world wines, Banter focuses on small producers who prioritize minimal intervention from vineyard to bottle. On location, you can purchase a bottle from the shelves to enjoy at home or savor a glass (or bottle) in-house. If you need something to eat while you’re there, choose from various delicious snacks including cheese, charcuterie, and other tasty treats.
During the pandemic, while drinking wine and eating cheese in their backyard, owners Claire and Devin were inspired to open a wine bar, but they wanted their wine bar to feel like “home,” - comfy, casual, no frills, just…chill. A collection of cozy couches in the back creates an ambiance reminiscent of enjoying a drink in the living room of your most stylish friend.
Classic VHS tapes and 80’s knick-knacks are precariously stacked high next to small vintage TVs playing films that will take you back in time. When I was last there the original Flash Gordon was playing. You probably won’t get to hear any of the movie dialogue because the bar is spinning LPs from an ever-expanding vinyl collection, fueled by contributions from patrons. A pinball machine in the back room adds to the decor's nostalgic charm and provides an entertaining distraction between pours.
With a partial kitchen, Banter partners with local talent and the community to create new opportunities by featuring “pop-ups” - temporary restaurants that allow chefs and restaurateurs to try out a new neighborhood, experiment with their menu, generate a following, or just get some great experience for their staff.
During my most recent visit, I got a front-row seat at the bar to witness Chef Emmanual from the restaurant Bolita work his magic with fresh masa, a must-have ingredient at the center of all his signature dishes. Most notable was the Tamal de Calabaza which featured squash masa, mole negro tamal, roasted kabocha, and cashew crema. A nice compliment was the Papas Rositazadas, simple roasted potatoes with black garlic aioli. Both were deliciously elevated and beautifully plated for such a casual environment.
Unfortunately by the time you read this Bolita would have moved on to their next location but you can track them down on their website at www.bolitamasa.com. Banter will continue to feature pop-ups and to find out what’s in store next visit their location or follow their Instagram @banter_winebar.
As temporary as the pop-up food concept is, Banter is hopefully here for good as they focus on what’s most important, which is most fittingly stated by the intentionally sloppy, hand-painted sign in front, “Bad Signs, Good Wigns!”
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